A glimpse from the past
Now, in the earlies of 2018, at the age of 43 I look back to my journey and think how crazy this has been from living in a Caravan just water front shaping a couple of boards only when there was no waves, to a full time single dad and a surfboard business owner..
I was just a kid that grow up in a country side that couldn’t fit into the surrounding environment the same way the fish can’t live out of the ocean…..and then back in the late 80’s looking into a magazine – SURFING, a window opens to me and the journey begins!
Back then the surf had everything I dream on: beautiful lifestyle on the beach, healthy, athletics, nice chicks, parties, fun lots of fun, and the best of all the shear of something unique among really good friends.
A few years later while running a surf club my buddy push me to shape a board cause I was very handy and I shaped my first board: a lovely eggy shape 6′8” single fin 3″ thick red pigment resin and glass on wood fin that later it become a thruster 6′1”.
As long the life progress, it was time to go to university, but the surfing stroke was getting stronger and start to question my gold till I decided to quit study, that it just wasn’t for me… life now was all about be happy with simple things and not achieve more gold than you need. It was all about surfing and enjoying every day with your mates, “surf all day party all night”. A few years later and I was on a plane to the unthinkable INDO. OHH it was just like the movies. It was on the first year that we have VISA to enter in Indonesia and as soon they saw our passports, straight to a room full of policemen asking a lot of questions while the connection flight was waiting for us. We arrive in BALI at 22:00 with nothing booked, knowing nothing or anyone……. Typically of a bunch of “barneys” as they call in Hawaii but we manage two taxi to take us to some place close to padan to sleep.
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